Spiced Sweet Potato Doughnuts

[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

Mahlab is primarily used in Mediterranean and Middle Eastern breads and pastries, but there’s no reason to limit it to those applications. It works surprisingly well with baking spices common in most pantries, like nutmeg and cinnamon. I tried it out in a Southeast Asian version of doughnuts called kuih keria, in which butter and egg-laden batter is replaced with a simple sweet potato dough. With Rosh Hashanah right around the corner, these gently spiced doughnuts are just the thing to go with your plate of apples and honey.

If you’ve never made doughnuts before, these are your perfect starter. The dough comes together with remarkable ease and has few enough ingredients for even the most casual baker. As for the frying, all you need is a little organization and about $5 worth of oil. Temperature management isn’t as critical for these doughnuts as it is for other fried food; they’re quite forgiving. Dare I even call these healthy? The only sugar they need is in the glaze, and the dough itself is fat-free—even vegan.

For only a bit of effort you’ll be rewarded with rich, earthy doughnuts that allow mahlab to work its magic without taking center stage. You need a lot for its flavor to shine through, but it pairs beautifully with sweet potato. As with all fried food, these should be served as soon as they’ve had some time to cool down.

Ingredients

serves 12 (makes about 12 dougnuts), active time 1/2 hour, total time 1 hour

  • For the doughnuts
  • 1 1/2 pounds of sweet potatoes (about 3 medium-large)
  • 1 1/2 cups of flour
  • 2 tablespoons of mahlab, less if very fresh
  • 1 teaspoon of cinnamon
  • 1/2 teaspoon of freshly ground nutmeg
  • 2 teaspoons of baking powder
  • 1 or 2 heavy pinches of salt
  • 1 1/2 quarts of neutral-flavored oil, for deep frying
  • For the glaze
  • 1 cup of powdered sugar
  • 3 tablespoons of water

Procedures

  1. Boil the sweet potatoes with their skins on until a paring knife pierced through the center offers no resistance. Set them aside to cool a bit.

  2. Mix the remaining doughnut ingredients in a large bowl. Prep a work surface with some flour to dust the counter.

  3. When the sweet potatoes are just cool enough to handle, peel off the skins by wrapping them in a paper towel and rubbing them between your hands.

  4. Pur

Cook the Book: Jerk Pork

Photograph: Comida con Pablo

What’s the first image that pops into your head when you think about Jamaica? Bob Marley? White sandy beaches? A certain smokable substance? Perhaps a steel drum band? Or maybe, if your mind tends to jump to more food-related images, a smokey grill filled with jerk chicken and pork coated in that super spiced Jamaican seasoning that tastes like nothing else.

I usually reserve my jerk eating for Caribbean takeout, but this recipe for Jerk Pork from Steven Raichlen’s Planet Barbecue! was a perfect excuse to try it out on the home grill. Before attempting Raichlen’s jerk sauce I must advise implementing a pair of rubber gloves, and no, I am not being a baby. The pound of Scotch bonnets this recipe calls for is lethal once stemmed and sliced, and even with protected hands the smell is enough to send you into a sneezing fit. But once combined with the rest of the aromatics (thyme, basil, scallions, onions, garlic, and a handful of warm spices) and left to grill over a low flame, the heat magically dissipates. The butterflied pork shoulder takes on some of the heat, but in a way that has nothing to do with the mouth scorching heat of the raw Scotch bonnets.

After a solid hour on the grill the pork becomes dark and crusty and the inside moist and succulent, flavored through with the complex jerk seasoning. All that’s left to to is let it cool slightly and hack it up into bite-sized pieces. According to Raichlen, jerk pork is typically eaten off of wax paper with your fingers, but I served mine with peas and rice and a few fried plantains.

As always with our Cook the Book feature, we have five (5) copies of Planet Barbecue! to give away this week.

Special equipment: 1/2 cups oak or apple wood chips; 1/2 cup whole allspice berries

Ingredients

serves 10 to 12

  • 1 pound Scotch bonnet chiles, stemmed and cut in half (1/2 pound seeded Scotch bonnets for the tender of tongue)
  • 1 green bell pepper, cored and seeded
  • 1 bunch scallions, both white and green parts, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
  • 1 small onion, coarsely chopped
  • 2 shallots, coarsely chopped
  • 3 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
  • 1 piece (2 inches) fresh ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped
  • 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves, or 1 teaspoon dried thyme
  • 3 giant thyme leaves (Spanish thyme), or 1 additional teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
  • 6 fresh basil leaves, or 1 1/2 teaspoons dried basil
  • 1 tablespoon ground allspice, or more to taste
  • 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
  • 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/2 cup coarse salt (kosher or sea)
  • 1/4 cup vegetable oil
  • 1 tablespoon soy sauce, or more to taste
  • 1 Boston butt (bone-in pork shoulder roast; 6 to 7 pounds, with ample fat)

Procedures

  1. Place the Scotch bonnets, bell pepper, scallions, onion, shallots, garlic, ginger, thyme, basil, ground allspice, cinnamon, and black pepper in a food processor fitted with a metal blade and puree to a smooth paste, running the machine in bursts. Work in the salt, oil, and soy sauce. Add enough water (about 1/4 cup) to obtain a thick but pourable paste. Taste for seasoning, adding more allspice and/or soy sauce, as necessary; the mixture should be very salty and very flavorful. You should have about 2 1/4 cups—perhaps a little more than you need, but any excess keeps well in the refrigerator. Store it in a glass jar and place a piece of plastic wrap between the top of the jar and the lid, so the pepper fumes and salt don’t corrode the lid.

  2. Cut through one side of the pork shoulder to the bone. Cut around the bone and keep cutting to within an inch of the other side of the shoulder. Do not cut all the way through. Open the pork shoulder like a book. Cut under the bone and remove it. Pound the pork with a meat mallet or rolling pin until it is about 1 1/2 inches thick. Holding the knife parallel to the short edge of the pork rectangle, make a series of parallel cuts 1/2 inch deep and 2 inches apart from one edge to the other. Turn the pork over and make parallel cuts on the other side, working so that the cuts on the second side are midway between the cuts on the first side. These “accordion” cuts are a signature of Jamaican jerk masters and help the marinade and smoke flavors penetrate the meat.

  3. Spread half of the jerk marinade in the bottom of a nonreactive roasting pan or aluminum foil pan. Place the butterflied pork on top. Spread the remaining jerk paste over it. Let the pork marinate in the refrigerator, covered, for 2 to 4 hours.

  4. Mix the wood chips and allspice berries and soak them in water for 1 hour. Drain just before using.

  5. Drain the pork, scraping off the excess jerk seasoning; it’s OK to leave a little on.

  6. To grill: Technically Jamaicans grill jerk pork using the direct method, but the low heat and corrugated tin cover they use produces an effect similar to indirect grilling. And, indirect grilling requires less attention than direct grilling here. Take your choice.

    If you are grilling using the indirect method, set up the grill for indirect grilling and preheat it to medium. When ready to cook, if you are using a gas grill, add the wood chips and allspice berries to the smoker box or place them in a smoker pouch under the grate. If you are using a charcoal grill, toss the wood chips and allspice berries on the coals. Arrange the butterflied pork, fat side up, in the center of the grate over the drip pan and away from the heat and cover the grill.

    If you are grilling using the direct method, set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat it to medium-low. When ready to cook, if you are using a charcoal grill, toss half of the wood chips and allspice berries on the coals. If you are using a gas grill, add the wood chips and allspice berries to the smoker box or place them in a smoker pouch under the grate. Arrange the butterflied pork, fat side up, on the hot grate and cover the grill. Toss the remaining wood chips and allspice berries on the coals when you turn the pork; keep the grill covered.

  7. Grill the pork until it is darkly browned and very tender, 40 to 60 minutes using the indirect method; about 20 minutes per side using the direct method. Use an instant-read meat thermometer to test for doneness, inserting it through the side of the pork. When done the internal temperature should be about 190°F to 195°F.

  8. To serve, transfer the jerk pork to a cutting board and let it rest, loosely covered with aluminum foil, for 10 minutes. Using a cleaver, whack the pork into bite-size pieces. Traditionally, jerk pork is served on waxed paper to be eaten with your fingers.



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Cook the Book: Jerk Pork

Dinner Tonight: Greek Pasta with Sausage and Cheese

[Photograph: Blake Royer]

Most of the time, Greek food is off my radar. Not by any conscious choice—I’m always on the lookout for new dishes and new ideas—but it became especially clear while flipping through the recent Greece issue of Saveur. As usual, their selected recipes were authentic, varied, and uniformly delicious-sounding. Though some were more involved than others, I was drawn in particular to this simple pasta and sausage dish and its intriguing use of blue cheese as the basis for the sauce.

Pasta and sausage is nothing new—like bacon, the intense flavor of sausage has the ability to season a whole bowl of noodles. But draped in a luxurious sauce of blue cheese, Parmesan, and oregano, it was a revelation: The sour, funky flavor was a perfect foil for the richness of the sausage.

About the author: Blake Royer founded The Paupered Chef with Nick Kindelsperger, where he writes about food and occasional travels. After a year in Estonia, he’s now living in Chicago.

Ingredients

serves 4

  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 6 ounces semi-cured Greek pork sausages, or sweet Italian sausages, cut into 1-inch pieces
  • Kosher salt, to taste
  • 8 ounces pasta, preferably garganelli or penne
  • 1/2 cup white wine
  • 1/2 ounce blue cheese, crumbled
  • 1/4 cup heavy cream
  • 1/4 cup loosely packed fresh oregano leaves
  • 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese, for garnish
  • Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Procedures

  1. In a large (12-inch) skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat, then add the sausage and cook until golden, stirring only occasionally, 7-10 minutes.

  2. In the meantime, bring a large pot of salty water to boil and cook the pasta until al dente. Before draining the pasta, reserve 1/2 cup of the cooking water.

  3. Once the sausages are browned, add the wine and turn the heat to high. Reduce the liquid for 2 minutes, then lower the heat and add the blue cheese, cream, and oregano. Once the cheese is melted, add the pasta along with some of the pasta cooking water as needed to create a creamy, loose sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper, divide among plates, and garnish with Parmesan.



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Dinner Tonight: Greek Pasta with Sausage and Cheese

French in a Flash (Classic): Wild Mushroom Vol-au-Vent

[Photographs: Kerry Saretsky]

Whenever I think of puff pastry, I wonder how anything that should be so heavy could ever be so light. It is that lightness that gives meaning to vol-au-vent, literally “flying in the wind.” But in my family, we always translated them as “gone with the wind” because they fly off into people’s stomachs so quickly.

There are a million and one ways to make vol-au-vent, and even though the classic lidded nest in this recipe is the classic shape, I often just make little triangles or squares and call them by the same name, stuffed with anything from goat cheese and jam to brie and brown sugar. They really are blank canvases. This vol-au-vent is well grounded in tradition: a bite-size canapé made from bought puff pastry and stuffed with a creamy mushroom duxelles. The puff pastry is flaky and crispy, ready to crumble and collapse layer by layer at the very hint of a bite. And the mushroom filling is earthy and woodsy from mushrooms and thyme, and smooth from the crème fraîche.

I’ve always promised to show how to make classic French dishes easy with a little help from the store. This is how you do it.

About the author: Kerry Saretsky is the creator of French Revolution Food, where she reinvents her family’s classic French recipes in a fresh, chic, modern way. She also writes the The Secret Ingredient series for Serious Eats.

Ingredients

serves 9 canapés

  • 1 sheet of frozen puff pastry, thawed but very cold
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 8 ounces wild mixed mushrooms, chopped to a rubble
  • 1 whole, smashed garlic clove
  • 2 stems fresh thyme
  • 1 tablespoon dry white wine
  • 2 tablespoons crème fraîche

Procedures

  1. Preheat the oven to 400

Bocce Pasta Salad

I know, I know—sun-dried tomatoes and feta cheese is so 1989. I hope you trust me because this barbecue side is worth the trip down memory lane. It doesn’t suffer from the same dry pasta affliction so many other non-mayo based sauced pasta salads fall victim to.

This salad pairs well with many kinds of grilled protein, but where it really shines is supporting grilled chicken. In Napa Valley, we bring this to our weekly bocce games at least twice a season.

Ingredients

serves 6, active time 15 minutes, total time 30 minutes

  • 1 pound dried orzo pasta
  • 3 tomatoes
  • 15 sundried tomatoes packed in oil
  • 1 small red onion
  • 40 basil leaves (one bunch basil)
  • 7 ounces feta cheese (solid, not crumbled)
  • 1 large lemon
  • 1/3 cup olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 teaspoon ground pepper

Procedures

  1. Bring 4 quarts of salted water to a boil. Cook the orzo for 10 minutes in boiling, salted water.

  2. While orzo is cooking, chop the red onion as fine as you can. Chop the tomatoes into slightly larger pieces and chop the feta cheese into similarly sized chunks.

  3. When the pasta has finished cooking, drain in a colander and rinse with cold water.

  4. Dump the pasta from your colander into a large mixing bowl. Add the tomatoes, onions and feta. Don’t stir yet, although you will be tempted.

  5. Sprinkle salt and pepper over the bowl. Cut the lemon in half and squeeze the juice over the bowl.

  6. Drizzle the olive oil over the bowl as well. Now, you may toss, gently.



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Bocce Pasta Salad

Easy Corn Salad

Have you ever run out the door to a party and remembered at the last minute that you were supposed to bring a side dish? If this ever happens to you again, don’t get freaked out—you can get this dish together in time for the party (I’ve done it in 10 minutes).

You can make it with fresh corn, sliced and blanched, but for ease of preparation I use frozen corn outside the months of July and August.

Other recipe variations include:

  • Adding a rinsed can of black beans and serving in lettuce bundles
  • Adding chopped avocado for a little creaminess
  • Adding crumbled queso fresco for a salty roundness

Ingredients

serves 6, active time 15 minutes, total time 20 minutes

  • 1 bag frozen corn
  • 1 red bell pepper, diced
  • 1 orange bell pepper, diced
  • 1/2 red onion, diced
  • 4 stalks green onions, chopped
  • 1/2 bunch cilantro leaves, chopped
  • 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
  • 1/4 cup canola oil
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Procedures

  1. If you’re using frozen corn, put frozen corn in a colander. Run water over the corn until it’s thawed.

  2. Mix the corn with the red bell pepper, orange bell pepper, red onions, green onions, and cilantro.

  3. In a spillproof container (such as an empty, clean spaghetti jar or plastic container with a lid), add the red wine vinegar, oil, garlic, salt and cayenne. Close the lid and shake furiously. You could also whisk the ingredients for the dressing together.

  4. Drizzle the dressing over the corn mixture.



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Easy Corn Salad

Hearn Family Cole Slaw

This has become such a quick, go-to slaw, we don’t think twice. It’s perfect with barbecue, all kinds of burgers, and it’s good both on sandwiches and alongside them. Huzzah for slaw! Huzzslaw!

Ingredients

  • 1/2 head cabbage
  • 3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
  • 1 bunch green onions, sliced fine
  • 1/2 cup mayonnaise
  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1/8 teaspoons cayenne pepper
  • 3 carrots, grated

Procedures

  1. Slice the cabbage into whisper-thin ribbons. Finely chop the green onions. Add both to a large bowl.

  2. Douse the cabbage and green onions with the cider vinegar, and toss.

  3. Drop the mayonnaise, salt and cayenne into the cabbage. Mix until blended.

  4. Gently fold the grated carrots into the cole slaw. You don’t want to be too rough with this part or the carrots will bleed orange throughout the slaw, turning it a Creamsicle color.



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Hearn Family Cole Slaw

Chili for Chili Burgers, Chili Dogs, or Chili Fries

[Photograph: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

This chili ends up with a homogeneous, saucy texture perfect for topping burgers, hot dogs, or fries. Leftover chili can be stored in the fridge for up to 1 week.

The chile is best with the whole dried chiles indicated in the recipe, but you can substitute 3 tablespoons of your favorite chili powder if desired. Add it to the pot along with the other ground spices in step 2.

Ingredients

serves about 8, active time 20 minutes, total time 95 minutes

  • 2 whole Ancho or Pasilla chiles, stemmed, seeded, and torn into strips
  • 1 whole New Mexico red, California, Costeño, or Choricero chile, stemmed, seeded, and torn into strips
  • 1 whole Cascabel, Arbol, or Pequin chile, stemmed, seeded, and torn in half
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 1 medium yellow onion, diced fine (about 1 1/2 cups)
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons whole cumin seed, toasted and ground
  • 1 teaspoon coriander seed, toasted and ground
  • 1 whole clove, toasted and ground
  • 1 whole star anise, toasted and ground
  • 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
  • 3 tablespoons tomato paste
  • 2 teaspoons soy sauce
  • 1 anchovy filet, minced (optional)
  • 1/2 teaspoon Marmite (optional)
  • 1 teaspoon sugar
  • 1 1/2 pounds 80/20 ground chuck or short rib
  • 1 quart chicken stock
  • 2 tablespoons masa harina
  • 1 tablespoon Frank’s Red Hot
  • 1 tablespoon bourbon (optional)
  • Kosher salt

Procedures

  1. Combine all chiles in a medium microwave-safe bowl and cover with water. Microwave on full power for 2 minutes. Remove bowl from microwave and allow chiles to soak for 10 minutes. Using immersion blender or upright blender, blend soaked chiles until smooth, adding soaking water as needed to keep texture loose.

  2. Melt butter over medium-high heat in Dutch oven. When foaming subsides, add onions and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, until onions are softened but no browned, about 6 minutes. Add ground spices and oregano and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until aromatic, about 1 1/2 minutes. Add tomato paste, soy sauce, anchovy, Marmite (if using), and sugar, and cook, stirring frequently until paste begins to stick to bottom of pan, about 1 1/2 minutes.

  3. Remove pan from heat and add 2 cups of chicken broth. Scrape up any browned bits from bottom of pan with wooden spoon. Add ground beef and break up using whisk until mixture is completely homogeneous (no large chunks of beef should remain). Add remaining chicken stock and return to stovetop and set over medium high heat. Cook, whisking frequently, until mixture comes to a simmer. Cover with lid slightly ajar, reduce heat to low, and cook for 75 minutes, stirring occasionally, until mixture is thick and intense.

  4. Combine masa harina and 2 tablespoons water in a small bowl and mix until homogeneous. Add masa mixture, hot sauce, and bourbon to chili and stir to combine. Bring to a boil and simmer until thickened, about 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt and serve immediately on top of burgers, hot dogs, or fries.



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Chili for Chili Burgers, Chili Dogs, or Chili Fries

Crispy Duck with Blackberry Gastrique, Roasted Pearl Onions, and Israeli Cous-Cous

Special equipment: Heavy-bottomed saute pan; medium saucepan; rimmed baking sheet for roasting

Ingredients

serves 4, active time 30 minutes, total time 40 minutes

  • 12 pearl or cipollini onions, ends trimmed, skins removed
  • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
  • Kosher salt and black pepper
  • 1/2 cup sugar
  • 2 tablespoons water
  • 1/2 cup red wine vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon dry red wine, such as cabernet
  • 2/3 cup fresh blackberries
  • 2 sprigs thyme
  • 1 teaspoon canola oil
  • 4 skin-on duck breast halves
  • 2 cups cooked Israeli cous-cous

Procedures

  1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350°F. Toss onions and olive oil in medium bowl to coat. Season generously with salt and pepper. Transfer onions to rimmed baking sheet and roast until a knife tips slips easily in and out of the onion, about 35 minutes.

  2. Meanwhile, combine sugar and water in small heavy-bottomed saucepan. Cook over medium-high heat until sugar is dissolved. Continue to cook without stirring until the liquid reaches a light blond caramel color, 5-8 minutes, swirling gently to help mixture cook evenly. Add red wine vinegar all at once (mixture will boil very rapidly). Continue to cook until sugar is re-dissolved, about 3 minutes.

  3. Add wine to pan and reduce until slightly syrupy, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add blackberries and thyme and cook until blackberries have broken down slightly and mixture is dark red with the texture of light maple syrup. Remove from heat and season to taste with salt and pepper.

  4. For the duck: Pat duck breasts dry with paper towels and season generously on both sides with salt and pepper. Heat canola oil in a 12-inch heavy-bottomed cast iron or stainless steel skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering, about 2 minutes. Gently place duck breasts in pan skin-side down and press down firmly with spatula to ensure good contact between skin and pan. Cook until the skin is golden brown and crispy, 6 to 8 minutes. Using tongs, flip breasts and cook on second side until thickest part of breast registers 130 degrees on an instant read thermometer for medium, about 3 minutes longer, or 140 degrees for medium-well, about 4 minutes longer. Transfer duck breasts skin-side-up to large plate, tent loosely with foil and allow to rest 3-5 minutes. Rewarm gastrique over low heat if necessary. Slice duck and serve with cous-cous, onions, and gastrique.



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Crispy Duck with Blackberry Gastrique, Roasted Pearl Onions, and Israeli Cous-Cous

Lavender-Hyssop Ice Cream

[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

Lavender is a surprisingly versatile dessert ingredient with a strong affinity to cream. It’s a love-it-or-hate-it kind of herb, but the creaminess subdues its at-times overwhelming intensity. Hyssop has largely fallen out of Western culinary use, which is a shame given its long history dating back to ancient times. Fortunately it’s increasingly common in gardens and at farmers’ markets.

Though somewhat minty, it has a full-bodied, rounded flavor that makes mint look like toothpaste fodder by comparison. A whiff evokes wide-open meadows and bright summer days and tea sandwiches on the veranda.

If you can score some fresh hyssop, by all means use it, but this herb takes well to drying and the dried leaves have plenty of flavor. Both it and lavender pair beautifully with the complex sweetness of honey, so using that as our sweetener was a no-brainer. Honey also makes for a velvet-smooth texture.

Both herbs can become bitter if used too heavily or steeped for too long. While a bunch of mint leaves is best steeped for up to two hours, much smaller amounts of these herbs reach their optimum flavor after half an hour to forty five minutes. The process, however, is the same: bring your dairy to a bare simmer, stir in the herbs, kill the heat, and cover. Just be sure to strain them before tempering your eggs. With this technique in hand, there’s very few ice cream flavors out of your reach.

About the authors:
Ethan Frisch is the chef and co-mastermind behind Guerrilla Ice Cream, the only ice cream company that looks to international political movements for inspiration and donates all of its profits. He’s traveled around the world (30 countries, 5 continents) and worked as a pastry chef and line cook in some of NYC’s great (and not so great) restaurants. He lives above a tofu factory in Manhattan’s Chinatown.

Max Falkowitz writes Serious Eats’ weekly Spice Hunting column. He’s a proud native of Queens, New York, will do just about anything for a good cup of tea, and enjoys long walks down the aisles of Chinese groceries.

Special equipment: ice cream maker

Ingredients

serves 8 (makes about one quart), active time 1/2 hour, total time 3 hours, plus an overnight rest

  • 2 cups of cream
  • 1 cup of whole milk
  • 6 large egg yolks
  • 3/4 cup of light honey
  • 1 tablespoon of dried lavender flowers
  • 2 tablespoons of dried hyssop
  • Pinch of salt

Procedures

  1. Combine the cream, milk, and salt in a pot. Slowly bring to a simmer. Turn off the heat and stir in the herbs. Cover and let sit for half an hour to forty five minutes.

  2. When the cream mixture tastes herby enough, whisk together the egg yolks and honey. Reheat the cream mixture again till just hot but not simmering. Pour in the cream mixture through a strainer, making sure none of the herbs remain in the liquid or the pot. Whisk everything to combine, then pour it all back into the pot.

  3. Slowly bring the mixture to a simmer, stirring frequently to prevent curdling or sticking to the bottom of the pot. After a few minutes, when the custard starts to feel thick, dip in a spoon and run your finger along the back. When the custard holds the line you drew without dripping, it’s done.

  4. You can chill it and spin it in your ice cream machine, but custards’ flavor and texture benefit greatly from an overnight rest. Freeze according to manufacturer’s instructions.



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Lavender-Hyssop Ice Cream